05.11.2009
TRAVEL JOURNAL: Rome, Day Five
DAY FIVE
We had intended to go to the Vatican museum on Tuesday, but we got a later start thanks to the previous night’s ministrations of Friar Whiskey. Instead, we walked over to the Quirinal toward Piazza Barberini, where we had enjoyed lunch the day before. Today, our goal was skellingtons, notably those bones on display on Via Veneto in Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini. The whole thing is freakish, but I suppose we must be forgiving of the people who brought cappuccino to the world. If they want to line their rooms with the skulls and femurs and cowled corpses of dead monks and other random bodies, who are we to argue? (Actually, I don’t know if the Capuchins invented cappuccino, and I don’t even like cappuccino, but are you going to argue with five thousand skellingtons? I don’t think so.)
The church features a series of tableaux made out of human bones, the point of which is apparently to remind the viewer that he is going to die and decompose, and also that there is more to life than the physical. Although, as Rob noted, it’s rather zen, it’s also spectacularly ugly and unpleasantly musty. I was feeling dizzy afterward and we had an expensive lunch across the Veneto. Mine was a caprese salad with a huge hunk of fresh mozzarella. Take that, bones.
Afterward, we felt invigorated enough afterward to walk for miles to the Trastavere neighborhood, which is across the river. This would not have been my first choice for a destination, but Rob wanted to see this quaint area, and in fact, it was quite beautiful; much more laid back than the central part of town. We had Second Lunch at a sidewalk café, and when a thunderstorm threatened, ducked into the Museum of Rome at Trastavere to see some watercolors of Roman daily life in the 1800s. I’m not a big fan of watercolors, but it was interesting to see paintings of what some of the areas we had already visited looked like about a hundred fifty years ago (mostly the same except for colorful peasants lounging around in the foreground). This is also one of those museums that sets up terrifying manikins in life-sized dioramas of days gone by, and the viewer spends so much time being repulsed by the manikins that they don’t notice the other aspects. In general, I would say this was a FAIL, except it did keep us out of the thunder and lightning.
It was still raining when we emerged, however, and unable to get a cab, we walked the two point two miles back to our room, fending off the hoards of salesmen who sprung up out of the cobblestones to sell five-euro umbrellas. I don’t know why we turned them down because we were both soaked to the core, but there was something creepy about the way they materialized and shoved umbrellas in our faces as the first drop of water hit the pavement. The walk was somewhat romantic, but my advice would be to avoid Roman rain if at all possible: the two white shirts I was wearing turned brown upon exposure to that mysterious element, and I’ve been unable to get some sort of greasy fog off my glasses ever since.
That night, we had dinner at a place recommended by Father Craig. Once again, we went late, and my blood sugar was at an all-time low, but I did cheer up a bit over helping Rob decide whether he had just ordered meatballs or baby octopus. They turned out to be meatballs, but the gods of irony were watching, and it wouldn’t be long before they had their revenge.
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